Brand new: Models show off original clothing designed by the MaXhosa Africa label, which is set to make an appearance at this year’s Paris Fashion Week
A week ago, I found myself wandering the streets of Johannesburg, unsure of what to expect but eager to see the story behind one of South Africa’s most recognised fashion brands — MaXhosa Africa, founded in 2012 by Laduma Ngxokolo.
This wasn’t my first encounter with the brand — I’d passed by the MaXhosa store at Mall of Africa, in Midrand, countless times, admiring the bold, traditional prints that seemed to speak a language I couldn’t quite understand.
However, stepping into the MaXhosa Africa studio would prove to be an entirely different experience — and one that would redefine my understanding of African luxury fashion.
Navigating Johannesburg is an art. As they caution, “Never look like you are not from here.” However, in reality, many of us are merely passing through — working, hustling and returning home at the end of the day.
As I made my way toward MaXhosa’s headquarters, I felt a certain sense of belonging to the city, yet I knew I was far from immune to its complexities. Despite my growing ease with the Joburg CBD, I ended up passing the building I was looking for twice, unsure of where to go.
I walked into a building, still doubting myself, not knowing whether this was the correct location.
A sense of unease crept over me as I provided my maternal clan names to the security guard — a practice that remains a cornerstone of respect in many African cultures, however, there is a time and a place for such things. The guard’s response to my nervousness was a gentle but firm directive to another patron who would help me find my way.
As I ascended the stairs, the first clue that I had arrived was the distinct MaXhosa print wallpaper adorning the walls. But it wasn’t until I crossed the threshold of the glass doors into the heart of the studio that the world of MaXhosa truly unfolded before me.
What struck me instantly was the craftsmanship. I had avoided MaXhosa Africa for years, mainly because of the social media frenzy around its price tags.
The luxury price points left me feeling alienated, unsure of how to — or whether I would ever — engage with the brand beyond the occasional admiring glance.
But standing there in the studio, surrounded by meticulously crafted pieces, I realised just how little I understood about MaXhosa’s luxury and its place in the larger narrative of African fashion.
I was particularly struck by the intricacy and care behind each garment. As I gazed at the beautiful designs, I began to understand the level of precision involved in the creation of every item.
Sitting down to talk and to listen to managing director Lihle Nqini, I learned more about the realities of fakes in the luxury fashion market — a problem that has plagued the brand in recent years.
“Counterfeits have been an issue since 2018,” Nqini explained, holding up a fake MaXhosa golf T-shirt that had been purchased from Small Street, Johannesburg’s notorious market for knockoff goods.
“We had to purchase it so we could understand what the counterfeit designers are doing,” Nqini added, highlighting the scale of the issue. In the past year, the counterfeiting has escalated, with fakers going so far as to add MaXhosa’s labels and swing tags to their knock-off products.
Nqini then handed over a genuine MaXhosa T-shirt, and the difference was immediately apparent.
The counterfeit item felt flimsy, lacking the weight and texture that would define a luxury garment. In contrast, the authentic MaXhosa piece was crafted from woven wool, heavy to the touch, and imbued with a luxurious quality that mass-produced garments never have.
The attention to detail is more than just about style. MaXhosa is a brand that aims to create jobs and uplift communities and Nqini made it clear that counterfeits are not only a threat to the brand’s image but to the livelihoods of the more than 300 workers employed by the brand.
The goal is to ensure that these jobs are protected and that consumers who purchase MaXhosa know that they are investing in a product of authenticity and craftsmanship.
The journey didn’t end there.
As we ventured behind the scenes of the MaXhosa studio, the magic of the brand came alive in a way that photographs and videos can never quite capture.
We had the privilege of seeing the design team at work, sketching out new ideas and prototypes, each piece a visual representation of the heritage and cultural pride woven into the fabric of MaXhosa Africa.
The production room was a marvel of organised chaos, as the team worked diligently to turn raw materials into works of art.
We also caught a glimpse of the homeware collection, still in its embryonic stage, which showcased the versatility of MaXhosa’s designs beyond clothing.
But perhaps the most exciting moment of the tour was when we were shown a dress that would soon be featured at Paris Fashion Week 2025 — an exclusive glimpse into the future of African fashion on the global stage.
It was at this moment that the full weight of the MaXhosa brand began to sink in.
Each garment was not just a product; it was a story — a narrative passed down through the traditions of Xhosa culture, reinterpreted for the modern world.
This is the core of what makes MaXhosa Africa so much more than just a fashion brand. It is a manifestation of African identity, a blend of tradition and innovation, of craftsmanship and luxury.
Having touched and felt the clothes, and witnessed the painstaking attention to detail that goes into the production of the garments, I began to understand why the prices of MaXhosa pieces are so high.
Luxury, as I had always understood it, was about status and exclusivity. But with MaXhosa, it was clear that luxury was about something deeper — the preservation of a culture, the empowerment of local artisans and the creation of sustainable jobs.
The price tag reflects the hours of work that go into each item, the sourcing of high-quality materials and the commitment to ensuring that each garment meets the highest standards of design and craftsmanship.
This is not fast fashion; it is timeless fashion, created to last, not just in terms of physical durability but also in terms of cultural impact.
As I left the MaXhosa studio, I carried with me a newfound appreciation for African luxury fashion.
What began as a visit to see the “beast behind the brand” turned into an eye-opening exploration of the rich cultural heritage and cutting-edge design that defines MaXhosa Africa.
Above and beyond creating clothes, the brand is about creating a legacy. It’s about honouring tradition, while paving the way for the future of African fashion in the world of haute couture.
MaXhosa Africa represents much more than high-end garments — it is a testament to what African fashion can achieve when passion, precision and culture are woven together.
Unlike the counterfeits that threaten to undermine its authenticity, through the hands-on craftsmanship that ensures each piece is made with care, MaXhosa continues to prove that African luxury fashion is more than an ephemeral trend — it is a movement.
And this movement is here to stay.