Suzy Bell
Should South African fashion be fun, or should it reflect urban decline? Debbie Reynolds, producer of the glamorous annual fashion event, the Durban Designer Collection (DDC) and lifestyle editor of the Independent on Saturday said of this year’s contest: “The brief to the designers and the judges was directional fashion. They were looking for a strong fashion statement based on more of a global awareness than purely reflecting Durban.
“The winning range by Colleen Eitzen was fantastic. It reflected the New Age and spirituality that is taking over the world.”
But Jenny Stretton, graphic artist of the Durban Art Gallery, who attended the DDC, argued that “Durban is about primary colours. Our multi- cultural society in Durban reflects this, but nowhere did I see that at this year’s DDC.
“This slavish dependence on Europe for inspiration is absolutely incredible. People like Garth Walker of Orange Juice Design gets it right in design, why can’t they get it right in Durban fashion?”
The winning range by Durban designer Colleen Eitzen, inspired by “urban decay”, for some reflected Europe’s new black, which is this season’s grey – sophisticated, and saturated with pre-millennium psychosis.
For a naive audience it looked like some of the models had escaped from the intensive care unit, especially as the dancers were all bandaged limbs and swathed in masses of sheeted garments.
Also the winner of the 1993 DDC, Eitzen, who works in a studio overlooking the green Valley of a Thousand Hills, said: “Colour choice is not an unconscious decision, it’s a conscious one. I chose the grey look because my inspiration comes from the feeling of the new millennium with its social decay. It’s fashion based on a global awareness. I’m also very much exposed to the latest trends in local advertising.
“Admittedly, I initially toyed with the idea of creating a range that reflected the new African renaissance, especially with my studio being up here I feel strongly about that, but maybe next time.
“But I do not think my range is Eurocentric. It’s just that this time I was much more inspired by the year 2000, and these are clothes that can be worn. I threw them together to give them that slightly unkempt, disheveled look. It’s also a look I do not normally do. For the first time I’ve created fashion that I wanted to do, whether it was loved or not. Thankfully it has worked.”
One of the DDC judges, Elle fashion editor Dion Chang, who flits to Paris twice a year to be sussed about the latest in fashion, said: “Colleen Eitzen’s winning range was really cutting edge. In terms of design it was of an international standard. It had the elements of the very latest designs from Issey Miyake – like the arm- restricted blouse. There were also the latest silhouettes from Christina Ortez (ex Prada label, who has just taken over the House of Lanvin).”
English model Ronald Ndor, who is studying law in Durban and modelled at this year’s DDC, said: “The winner’s range was certainly very different, highly original and very cool in both senses of the word. I would not have described it as Eurocentric.”
For those who missed the DDC, winning designer Colleen Eitzen will exhibit an installation of her designs at the Red Eye arts happening on Friday June 5 at 6pm at the Durban Art Gallery, City Hall, Smith Street