/ 20 April 2000

Welcome to Utopia

It’s full steam ahead as Rustlers Valley prepares for its big moment this Easter

Claire Bezuidenhout

Travelling to Rustlers Valley from Durban by bus – along with Germans, Belgians and one future “big time” London DJ wannabe – we arrived at the Amphitheatre Backpackers at the perfect point of the evening, where evening dew meets botany meltdown thanks to Dennis, the Tribe to Tribe guide.

This was my first encounter with the type of hard-core revellers Rustlers Valley in the Northern Drakensberg attracts – those of “geographical investigation”.

The Amphitheatre Backpackers is a privately run sandstone house, at the highest viewpoint, with the most amazing outlook of the Drakensberg that South Africa has to offer. And it is perfectly situated between Johannesburg and Durban.

Rustlers Valley is the ultimate escape and logical conclusion for any exhausted city slicker. The vastness of the mountains and the placidity of the sandstone paths conjure an ideal out-of- city Utopia. Catching my thoughts, before being corrupted by New Age mentality, I tried to grasp the inhabitants’ “am cool if you are cool” attitude.

The average Rustlers visitor is intellectually superior to most mortals at the local bar. His or her knowledge of botany, herbal healing, permaculture, alternative architecture and natural healing is equal to that of any pediatrician, botanist and psychologist.

Rustlers is often under attack from Free State small-town folk who see the place as a satanic gathering of lost children from broken Calvinist backgrounds, out to reassert themselves. The underlying beauty and simplicity of the farm could induce a certain insanity.

The residential, working populace exists for approximately six months between festivals, after which they travel, head home or work in order to sustain their valley thirst. While I was there an eclectic mixture of carpenters, organisers and music festival visionaries conversed and interacted through clouds of white smoke in the evenings, and power tool escapades during the day. They created mental waterfalls of brilliance for the Easter festival that is looming.

The Comet Caf, for example, is led by a group of English absurdists, whose talents are utilised as far as Kosovo. This year they will be parading what they call their “Nuns and Roses” outfit to the wired festival public with hits such as Knocking on Heaven’s Door. That, and other out-of-tune renditions of rock classics I heard from my room each morning.

As far as productivity goes, Rustlers is ripe. Nobody is exempt from service. Bill, the American DJ, visits frequently to help. His infinite CD collection ranges from Busi Mhlongo to Rage against the Machine. He also supervises the three 24-hour bars. On the carpentry side of things, complacent Matthew, imported from Britain, drills away at the planks for the new Rustlers restaurant, which will open in June with a stunning view of the mountains.

“Sound Journeys” are organised by Niyan in a pseudo-tepee, and are normally executed in groups of 40 plus. I was fortunate to have a full naked body, one- on-ancestral experience.

This year’s progressive festival line- up, from April 21 to 24, incorporates local and international acts such as The Egg, Boo, Sugardrive, Quacha, The Cornflowers, Wendy Oldfield, Copperpenny, Abafana Bakwa Zulu and The Mutant Harmony Trio.

Entertainment will include two different areas to indulge in. First, the Green Field is devoted to harmony with nature, set within a Native American medicinal circle and has a well-supervised children’s playground.

Second, the Futures Field is run purely on solar energy and is the nucleus of the festival. Here the world stage will show DJs, performance acts and comedians. Local village children will stilt walk.

All residents of Rustlers offer therapeutic healing aids from Reiki and stress alleviation therapies to tarot readings. Food options include Hare Krishna “karma free” stuff; large oily breakfasts provided by the lodge and your general shwarma/falafel fair.

Rustlers Valley is beautiful. At the risk of sounding like a public relations agent, I could indulgently sing its praises to the extreme.

But the ultimate truth is that Rustlers Valley is prepared, focused and couldn’t give a fuck what people think. Its people are confident and, in their sometimes extreme theology, well researched.

If you’re going there this Easter, it’s best to put away your city-based aspersions. Set up camp and stay for a few days. It is an experience you may not get your head around fully until you’ve left.

For more information about Rustler’s Easter festival visit www.rustlers.co.za