Lynda Gilfillan
Mention Meerlust, and something of a South African myth is conjured up. So much so, that in JM Coetzee’s award-winning novel, Disgrace, a bottle of Meerlust wine is mentioned as part of a crucial seduction scene. Marry Meerlust with grappa, and, well, who knows what might happen!
Hannes Myburgh, 8th generation proprietor of one of South Africa’s oldest wine estates, is delighted that local producers have received the go-ahead to export 420 000 hectolitres of duty-free wine annually to the European market. An added bonus is the 15-million euros that the European Union has pledged to assist in the restructuring of South Africa’s wine and spirits industry to help new farmers and promote the marketing of new names. One of these, according to a Department of Trade and Industry official, is “ruby” a new spirit on the block.
But Myburgh has reservations about aspects of the recently concluded wine and spirits agreement with the EU. While it is generally regarded as a victory for South Africa, the collateral damage for an estate that markets one of the forbidden brands is significant.
“The fact that we may no longer call grappa by this name compromises our intention to export the product worldwide. We have worked for six years to build the brand and to introduce the South African public to grappa,” says Myburgh who claims that Meerlust grappa is world-class. Annual grappa production at Meerlust is 20 000 bottles, and this month it will be shown at the Concours Mondiale Expo in Brussels. Two other internationally acclaimed local versions, Wilderer and Chamonix, together produce 10 000 bottles annually.
Giorgio Dalla Cia, who has winemaking in his blood, has been with Meerlust for close on a quarter of a century. “Wherever there’s an Italian, grappa will be produced,” says Dalla Cia. With European thrift, he laments “throwing away tons of raw material” in the form of skins and juice left over from the wine-making process, the basis of the smooth, aromatic liquor.
Dalla Cia took the gap when local legislation permitted the production of grappa nine years ago, but feels frustrated at what he sees as a European ploy to keep competition off global supermarket shelves.
He is passionate about the quality of local Grappa: “Visiting Italians, including prominent politicians, leave South Africa regularly with cases of Meerlust Grappa in their luggage we can compare with the best in the world. Two years ago we even beat a collection of Italian grappa at a Wine Magazine tasting.”
Both Myburgh and Dalla Cia complain about the anomaly of including grappa and ouzo in the phasing out of labels such as champagne, chianti, port and sherry. “Grappa is not a designated area of production as in the cases of sherry, port or cognac. Dalla Cia concurs: “Where do you draw the line?” he asks. “I can understand the argument when it comes to cognac and armagnac, but will they also ban names such as cappuccino, espresso and pizza and maybe brandy and whisky will be next!”
Myburgh expresses disappointment at the lack of information producers of grappa received during the negotiations, claiming that he had to rely on media reports. “We still don’t know what the argument behind the decision is,” he says, though the Department of Trade and Industry has agreed to hold an information day in the near future.
The decision will take effect within the next five to seven years, and in the meantime, a new name for the product will need to be found. Dalla Cia hopes that this will be done in collaboration with other new world producers of grappa in the United States, South America and Australia.
Dalla Cia sees the legislation as counterproductive. “Because of their provincial, narrow way of thinking, the Italians have lost a unique chance: survival depends on competition and quality production.” Indeed, local production has, according to Myburgh, “created an awareness of the product and an increase in grappa imports from Italy.” He, too, feels that the measure may backfire on the Italian producers, since over-subsidisation and protection in Europe discourages competition and therefore excellence.
Most people probably have terrible memories of that first foul mouthful of cheap imported grappa. European countries such as Italy currently sit with massive stores of overproduced liquor that no-one in the old country wants anyway, and that will, as Dalla Cia foresees, perpetuate old prejudices rather than promote the product or develop new palates. Had the subtle, sophisticated local product not fallen victim to past and current legislation, grappa might today have a chance of making real inroads into traditional local tipples.