My introduction to Swaziland was a curious one – no one at the Oshoek border post seemed sure exactly how many wives the Kingdom’ ruler, King Mswati III, actually has. The man at the immigration desk reckoned it was 13.
Unlucky for some, I thought, wondering what possible madness possessed a man to take so many wives.
Framed photographs of His Majesty dominated the walls behind the friendly, and for the most part efficient, immigration clerk, but, curiously, there were none of any of the queens. Not even a group shot of His-Self and the royal harem.
The clerk became embroiled in a dispute with a female colleague as to the actual number of Mrs Kings, and eventually my passport was ceremoniously stamped and a wan wave of a still argumentative hand motioned me to the customs desk where, I was told, I must pay road tax for the upkeep of Swaziland’s roads.
Wallet in hand, I gave in the slip of paper necessary to get my vehicle through the border and prepared to fish out any amount of money necessary to keep the king in a fitting amount of tarmac. When I was asked for R5, my jaw must have dropped because the official behind the bullet-proof glass smiled patiently and repeated: ”Yes. Only R5. Per vehicle.”
Perhaps that’s why the glass is bulletÂÂproof. To stop would-be wrongdoers from making off with what must be a very large jam jar full of R5 coins.
Winding my way down to Mbabane, there was little to tell me I was in another country. Once in town, the differences became even fewer; the shopping malls boasted the usual suspects – Woolworths, Mr Price, Milady’s…Spur, KFC. Rands were welcome everywhere and prices the same as at home.
My journey continued the short distance to the Ezulwini Valley and my ”home” for the long weekend – the Royal Swazi Sun hotel, spa and casino, where at last the drizzle stopped and the mist lifted, revealing some impressive mountain scenery and the equally impressive golf course the hotel has become famous for.
The Royal Swazi Sun is part of a cluster of Sun International hotels in the valley, all a stone’s throw (well, a short hop actually, by the hotel shuttle service) from one another, and each geared to a different budget, from the elegant ”Royal” to the Lugogo Sun, just down the drive and the Ezulwini Sun across the road.
On checking in, I noticed once again the handsome visage of His Kingness, displayed prominently on seemingly every piece of tourist information at the enquiries desk.
The ”Ngwenyama” – the father and life force of the nation – is woven into the fabric of everyday life in Swaziland. Crown Prince Makhosetive was crowned King Mswati III in 1986, after the death of his father, King Sobhuza II, who died in 1982. Under Sobhuza II, Swaziland gained its independence from the United Kingdom (in 1968). The king is omnipresent and, for the most part, omnipotent. And still finds time for a dozen or so wives while ruling his kingdom.
Apart from shopping malls and Sun International hotels, Swaziland has another thing in common with South Africa in that its tourism industry is growing.
The Sun International hotels are linked to this growth and around the Ezulwini Valley has sprung a handful of alternative accommodation establishments and a string of restaurants and eateries, all of which benefit from the presence of such a large and internationally renowned hotel group.
It’s easy to see why tourism is becoming the burgeoning hope of Swaziland, especially around the Ezulwini Valley. The countryside is breathtaking, the people are friendly and the craft markets offer a refreshing change to the mostly over-priced and mass-produced ”objets” back home.
The Mantenga Craft Centre, a few short kilometres from the hotel, was recommended to me. At first glance it didn’t exactly grab me, but once inside, the alleyway of tiny shops and the amazing wealth of wares on offer quickly became intoxicating.
Swazi pots, jewellery, carvings, mohair blankets and ceramics…but the ”star” in this firmament of crafters is Shiba Handcrafts, which sells the most beautiful handwoven cotton rugs, cushion covers, tablecloths and textiles.
Shiba is the public face of the Bethany Mission in Matsapha, a few kilometres outside Mbabane. Shop manageress Anna Hlophe explained that women from rural areas around Matsapha work at the mission weaving. The fabric and money made from them is ploughed back into their communities, which depend almost 100% on tourism as a means of income.
I did my bit for the Matsapha community and hit the road, laden with handwoven cotton, homeward bound and wondering if the king or any of the queens really know what treasures are sitting on their doorstep.
Perhaps I’ll send him a rug for his next wedding present.