Vesselina Pentcheva has big plans for 2010, and no, it has nothing to do with soccer but everything to do with fashion and international clients. The 10-year-old luxury couture fashion business has decided to rebrand itself and introduce a new ready to wear range, which include wedding dresses.
The Mail & Guardian caught up with the Bulgarian born designer at her new Parktown North retail space this week, ahead of Audi Joburg Fashion Week, which will be held at the Sandton Convention Centre from January 20.
Mail & Guardian: So how have you managed to get attention without a website or Facebook?
Vesselina: We have never advertised but have managed to build over 700 clients in the last 10 years. About 200 of them are what I call my VIP clients because they are the ones who keep coming back.
M&G: Who are these clients?
Vesselina: They are usually businesswomen — their lives are getting busier and this space is to accommodate their needs. They are all very strong, powerful, curvaceous and sexy. They are all mothers and celebrate the hourglass shape. Rachel Tambo is one of them and I think she is one of the most beautiful women.
M&G: Tell me a little about this retail space within your home.
Vesselina: It fits the profile of me keeping balance and harmony. I believe in harmony. As women there is a lot of pressure. We are mothers, wives and businesswomen and we need support. I am so lucky because I have amazing support structures. Working from home is great because my children are able to come in and out.
M&G: In 1993 you moved to South Africa to study at the Gordon Flack Davidson Academy of Design. Why the move to South Africa?
Vesselina: My family decided to immigrate. My parents believed there were more opportunities here in South Africa. You must remember the Berlin Wall in 1989, so Bulgarian politics changed, it was a communist government and life was uncertain and hard. We decided South Africa was the place to be and I am thrilled we made the move. I love the energy and smiling faces of this country and I love Jo’burg with all my heart. The city inspires me and the multifaceted women that live here. That’s where I get my inspiration.
M&G: What are the major style difference between South Africa and Bulgaria?
Vesselina: In Europe black is black and the culture of dressing is conservative and practical. In South Africa there’s an explosion of colour and texture that is drawn from the diversity of the landscape, which influences our art and interiors. When I am in Bulgaria I never dress in black. My father has even asked me to change a few times because there is a different aesthetic. I don’t take it personally but I still don’t change either. In Africa you can’t be simple, you have to celebrate the richness of cultures and the shapes of the women.
M&G: Are there any similarities?
Vesselina: Yes, in every nationality women want to be glamorous.
M&G: What interesting facts have you found when dressing South African women?
Vesselina: She loves to show her curves, her waist and her hips. She wants to celebrate and flaunt it. It’s liberating to see how South African women have really embraced their curves. I find them really stylish. In Europe, people want to dress down and in Africa people want to dress up. They’d rather be overdressed than underdressed.
M&G: Where does your love of fashion come from?
Vesselina: Since I was young. My parents and grandparents used to take me to the theatre and opera because it was the main source of entertainment in winter, and I used to love the costumes. I was initially going to study fine art but at the age of 11 I received a sewing machine. My grandparents gave my parents money to buy a washing machine and they bought me a sewing machine instead.
M&G: So how was your fashion show in Bulgaria received at the age of 16?
Vesselina: It was received really well. Russe is a very small town. There was a high society’s women’s club that my mom belonged to at the time and she arranged for me to show. I have a video somewhere. I showed 12 to 15 winter dresses. They were all black, grey and brown and I sold them all.
M&G: How was it like working with Marianne Fassler?
Vesselina: Working with her was fantastic. She showed me the world. We went to Paris, Miami, Dallas, London and New York. I fell pregnant with my first child almost 10 years ago and I knew that I wanted to be with my children. We worked well together but it was time for me to move on.
M&G: What would you describe as your signature?
Vesselina: Extremely feminine and romantic.
M&G: How difficult was it to launch 10 years ago?
Vesselina: It wasn’t difficult but I just wish I knew what I know now then. Luckily I have the right people around me. I have the family, the husband and staff that has never let me down. We have worked non-stop since the 4th and I am amazed at the enthusiasm and dedication.
M&G: How are preparations for the collection you will be showing on Saturday going?
Vesselina: The whole concept was designed at the end of November 2009 and all the fabrics were already available. We decided to be more environmentally conscious this time round. I wouldn’t call it recycling but just working with what we already had. But in between everything there is two weddings and nine other orders from clients. This is what pays the bills so we really have to find time to put the collection together in-between everything.