There is something strange about buying a lime-and-water at a hotel bar and paying Z$5 000 (about R5) for it, not to mention converting a room account from South African rands into hundreds of thousands of Zimbabwean dollars.
Welcome to Zimbabwe, land of political upheaval and a currency gone mad and, for South Africans at least, a friendly value-for-money holiday destination.
Unlike many parts of Zimbabwe, in Victoria Falls there is food, there is petrol and there are some fantastic hotels to suit most budgets.
Try and talk politics in Vic Falls and most residents will shrug off the subject and tell how they are just trying to make a living — and getting on with the business of flying the flag of Zimbabwean hospitality — which is superb.
And if the town seems a bit deserted, and the hotels empty, then certainly South African guests can take pleasure in the fact that they don’t have to push and shove to get a lounger at the pool or wait hours for a round of drinks.
Occupancies at the hotels, in particular larger establishments such as Elephant Hills Intercontinental, the Kingdom and the Victoria Falls Hotel, have been rather sad of late, but it’s a situation which is slowly beginning to improve on the slump of 2000/01.
After the first land invasions in Zimbabwe, the tourism industry in the town went into the red virtually overnight. But lately signs are that things are beginning to pick up, and projections for the next few months show a marked improvement on the last couple of years.
A range of excellent packages on offer at the moment have helped to inject some much-needed oomph into a town which was, until a few years ago, the adventure capital of Africa.
Be it bungee jumping, white water rafting, jet boating, microlighting, gorge swinging or foofi sliding — if it gets the adrenaline pumping in the veins — it’s to be found in Vic Falls.
Helicopter flips offer visitors the ultimate way to view the Zambezi Gorge, as do the (much) more unnerving microlight flights.
Fans of more sedate modes of transport can take advantage of elephant-back safaris on private game concessions around town, a range of game drives into the nearby national park and a sunset cruise on the river, complete with a seemingly inexhaustible flow of alcoholic refreshments.
Getting around Victoria Falls is easy on foot. The town is small and most of the sights are accessible to walkers. With the exception of a couple of the hotels which are on the outskirts of town, everything is close at hand.
Accommodation ranges from the municipal camping site — with tent sites and chalets from about $20 a night (it’s nothing special but neat and clean) for the backpacking brigade — to lodges such as Matetsi Game Lodge and Victoria Falls Safari Lodge and the larger, more upmarket hotels such as the Kingdom, Elephant Hills Intercontinental and luxury Victoria Falls Hotel. There are some excellent flight-inclusive packages available at the moment. Here’s a quick rundown:
Elephant Hills: Situated a couple of kilometres out of town on a large tract of land running down to the Zambezi, the hotel is large (276 rooms, 11 suites and two deluxe and presidential-type suites) and has an 18-hole championship golf course. An adventure centre caters for day-trips and activities and there’s a small gym, beauty centre and entertainment with dinner each night. Thirty-five rand a day buys you a day pass on a shuttle service to and from town. It’s a great hotel and perfect for golf fans who want a bit of bush with their bunkers — the game roams freely on the fairways.
The Kingdom: In the middle of town, a short walk from the falls themselves, the Kingdom reminds you of the Palace at the Lost City. The architecture is amazing, the service is excellent and in terms of value for money, this hotel perhaps offers the best packages for the South African market.
Victoria Falls Hotel: Next door to the Kingdom, this is the grand dame of Southern African hotels. More than 100 years old, this hotel offers genuine colonial charm with all the luxuries of life. Marvellous views of the rail bridge and lower gorge can be had from the sweeping lawns and the food is to die for. Try afternoon tea on the terrace.
Sharon van Wyk was part of a media group hosted by hotels in the region
Places to go and things to do
The Falls: It costs $10 for South Africans to get access, but remember to take your passport with you to take advantage of this price. Take a camera and an umbrella and allocate enough time ‒ you’ll be rendered speechless.
The Big Tree: A baobab on the Falls Road on the outskirts of town.
The Baca Art and Craft Co-Operative Society: Its craft market and the Sinathinkawu Craft Market are both deserving of some serious browsing with some excellent bargains to be had.
The Wa Nuka Queen: A leisurely sunset booze cruise upstream on this sedate river boat offers the chance to sight (both African, and pink) elephants.
Flights of Angels: There are several options for flights over the falls, but perhaps the best-known in Vic Falls is Shearwater Adventures’s helicopter outfit just down the road from the Elephant Hills resort. Choose from 15 and 30-minute trips.
The lowdown
Elephant Hills: Prices start at R2 665 a person, sharing, for three nights, including flights from Jo’burg on Air Zimbabwe, transfers, and breakfast each day. Add on R1012 for departures from Cape Town and R600 from Durban. Prices are for South African residents only and are valid to March 31 2005.
The Kingdom: Prices are from R2 699 a person, sharing, for three nights including return flights from Jo’burg, breakfast each day. Add on R569 for departures from Cape Town and R365 from Durban. Prices are for South African residents and are valid up to December 31.
Victoria Falls Hotel: Prices from R3 360 a person, sharing for three nights, including return flights from Jo’burg, transfers and breakfast each day, free laundry, complementary high tea and a 50% discount on a massage. Prices are for South African residents only and are validfrom December 16 to 31.
For more information, contact African Sun on (011) 442 0488.
Upmarket Lodges: For special packages for Matetsi Game Lodge and Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, as well as other special packages to the area, visit www.thompsons.co.za