Fishing. Even the word smacks of something men do, like golf, to ensure a few precious hours away from wives and girlfriends, or provide an excuse for a weekend away with the lads. It isn’t something immediately attractive to those who haven’t tried it.
But how about this? A short-break destination in South Africa, with pristine bushveld packed with game, a 13 276ha dam packed with tiger fish and affordable to boot.
Where? Pongola, that’s where.
Yes, Pongola, in the far northern reaches of KwaZulu-Natal, on the border with Swaziland and the shores of Lake Jozini – otherwise known as Pongolapoort Dam.
The Pongola Game Reserve is nestled on the dam’s southerly shores, overlooking the rail bridge that crosses the mouth of the Pongola River as it enters the huge, man-made expanse of water.
The reserve occupies part of an area that was declared a game reserve in 1894 by Paul Kruger. It is owned and run by the Landman family, who came to Africa in 1744.
It’s a beautiful swathe of land, with mountains, hills and spectacular views of the river and the lake. Game is plentiful, with everything except lion to look out for.
When it comes to accommodation, guests are spoilt for choice. There are six lodges on the reserve and two modes of accommodation – self-catering (bring your own food and cook it yourself) or fully-catered (don’t lift a finger, it’s all taken care of). The largest of the lodges are the 24-bed Mpalane (self-catering) and Nkwazi (fully-catered).
There’s lots to do on the reserve, from game drives, game cruises, canoeing and hiking trails to birding, tracking rhino and visiting an elephant-monitoring project, among other things. Breakfast, lunch or sundowner cruises are available on the reserve’s Fish Eagle Safari Boat.
Rhino tracking is interesting. You are taken out in a game-viewing vehicle with a researcher to learn about telemetry and radio-tracking while trying to find one of the collared white rhino on the reserve. Along the way you get to see some of the fauna and flora which make this part of KwaZulu-Natal the breathtakingly beautiful area it is. The cost is about R150 per person for a full morning or afternoon.
And then, of course, there’s the fishing. Believe me when I say that, until very recently, I would never have thought fishing a suitable pastime, and would certainly not have gone out of my way to do it.
Then I caught my first tiger fish, and everything changed. Fishing is all about possibility – what might happen – and that’s the thrill, waiting for the next big bite. And when it comes to tigers, they do indeed bite big.
Landing a tiger is a challenge. They have bony plates in their upper jaw, meaning you have to strike hard and fast to hook them, and once they’re on the line they fight like mad to free themselves. I’ve lost more tigers than I’ve landed, but there’s something addictive about hauling this incredible fish out of the water, weighing it, posing for the photographic record of your catch and then letting it go again.
Fishing charters are available at Pongola Game Reserve on request, but most guests go the normal route of organising a fishing trip through their lodge. The boats can be hired out, with the price including a skipper and a tank of fuel per day.
Three-seater boats cost about R400 for half a day, and R600 for a full day. A six-seater boat will set you back about R500 for half a day and R750 for a full day. Fishing tackle can be hired from R40 per rod per day.
Try it once and I guarantee you’ll be hooked!
Where to stay: choice lodges
Mpalane has six en-suite self-contained rondavels and six en-suite bedrooms in the main lodge building, which has a lounge with DStv, bar and fully equipped kitchen. There’s also a boma with braai and gas cooking facilities and a swimming pool in which to cool off after a hot day in the bush. It’s booked exclusively to one group at a time, making a great getaway for large groups of friends and families. Rates are in the region of R180 per adult and R95 per child.
Nkwazi is positioned on a cliff overlooking the dam and surrounding savannah. Twelve en-suite chalets, all air-conditioned, are beautifully turned-out with mini-bars, tea and coffee-making facilities and private stoeps. There’s a central lounge, bar and dining area, boma and pool. The rate, R525 per adult per night and R300 per child, includes dinner, bed and breakfast/brunch, tea and coffee.
Inyati self-catering lodge accommodates six people and is booked out to one group at a time. It has three en-suite chalets, its own pool, communal social area with lounge, kitchen, braai facilities and lapa. Rates are R230 per person per night, with a minimum daily rate of R920 per day. Children under the age of 12 are not allowed.
Mhlozi and Sondaba self-catering bush camps sleep 16 and 12 people respectively and are booked out on a group basis, along the same lines as Inyati. Their rates are R175 per person per night (minimum R1 450 per day), and R145 per person per night.
Mvubu lodge is set on a hill overlooking the Pongola River and features luxury accommodation for 20 people in individual air-conditioned thatched chalets with en-suite facilities and private stoeps with a view of the river. Mvubu’s rates are R585 per adult per night, again with children under 12 not allowed.
Getting there
By road the reserve is 450km from Jo’burg and 350km from Durban. From Jo’burg, take the N4 past Witbank and Middelburg, take a right on to the N11 to Ermelo, then the N2 through Piet Retief all the way to Pongola. Continue through the town of Pongola on the N2 for about 30kms – the reserve is signposted from Pongola.
For info on the reserve, its lodges and to confirm rates, go to www.pongolagamereserve.co.za or call 034 435 1123.