As I sit and watch the kingfishers hunting at the edge of the Marico River, it’s hard to remind myself that four short hours ago I was in the heart of the urban jungle, full of stress after a long week at work.
A few hours of driving has transported me to the beautiful Madikwe Game Reserve in the North West.
Madikwe, at more than 70 000ha, is one of the largest reserves in South Africa and home to the Big Five and more than 12 000 animals, including 66 mammal species.
The reserve has a diversity of habitats from acacia savannah to riverine woodland, and is different from other game reserves in that it was not always a wild area. The reserve was proclaimed in the early 1990s because turning the farmland into a game reserve was the most appropriate and sustainable way of using the land.
Unlike its near neighbour — the Pilanesberg Game Reserve — Madikwe is not a self-drive game- viewing destination. To gain access to the park you have to be booked into one of its various camps or lodges, all of which provide fully guided game drives as part of their packages.
When it comes to accommodation all budgets are catered for, from rustic catered bush camps to self- catering lodges, luxury tents and exclusive upmarket safari destinations.
At the lower end of the scale is Mosetlha Bush Camp, which has nine double cabins with partially open sides to maximise the experience of being in the wild and can accommodate 16 people. The amenities are simple — duvets, pillows and blankets are provided, but guests need to bring their own towels. There are communal ablution facilities and the tariffs include all meals, tea and coffee, snacks and two game drives and walks a day.
Madikwe Mooifontein, set in the western section of the reserve, offers a similarly cost-effective self- catering option for groups of up to 10 and is booked exclusively as a complete camp. It’s a great idea for groups of family and friends. The main lodge has its own lapa and swimming pool overlooking a waterhole where game regularly come to drink.
More expensive are Thakadu River Camp and Madikwe River Lodge. Thakadu is a community-owned, tented safari camp run by the Batlokwa Boo Kgosi. The camp is located between the Marico and one of its small tributaries, where 12 large tented suites can accommodate 24 people. Each tent has a sliding door that opens onto a private deck overlooking the river.
Madikwe River Lodge is also located on the Marico and has 16 secluded split-level thatched chalets set in the riverine forest along its banks. It has a special children’s programme, which makes it a great destination for families. Children have their own safari guides and are invited to complete a ‘mini-ranger” course, complete with booklets and study guides.
It’s a great concept and one that I hope other lodges will eventually pick up on. It is possible to enjoy a safari-style holiday and keep all members of the family satisfied!
Certainly, exploring Madikwe is enough to satisfy me. Seeing wild dogs denning, with very small cubs, was a highlight, as were the magnificent three male cheetah spotted on the hunt early one morning.
The reserve is firmly up there with the best bush destinations in South Africa. And well worth a visit.
Getting there
Madikwe Game Reserve is an easy three-hour drive from Johannesburg and Pretoria. The easiest route is via Sun City: take the N1 north at Pretoria and exit at the N4 Platinum Highway toll road offramp. Travel along the toll road until you get to Exit No 225 — the Sun City/Majakaneng offramp. Turn right to Sun City, which is about 73km from the offramp. You will pass Sun City on your right and continue for a further 5km until you reach a four-way junction, turn right to Derdepoort. Follow this road for almost 8km and then turn left at the sign for Bapong. Travel straight on this road and after passing through Mabeskraal, at a four-way junction, turn right to Derdepoort. After 26km this road becomes gravel and you will pass the Dwarsberg Liquor store on your left. After 32km of gravel, passing through Molatedi Village and over the Marico River, you will arrive at the Molatedi Gate to the reserve.
Visit www.madikwe-game-reserve.co.za for information — accommodation, maps, relevant links — about the reserve.