Five-star accommodation is strangely lacking in Durban’s city centre, but it places to stay are abundant along the beachfront and, from chic to cheap, it suits every pocket.
On a shoestring
The quality of many backpackers makes shoestring travel a delight. Surf n Dreams backpackers on Springfield Road in Morningside is a converted family home with a pool, two good-size private rooms and four dorm rooms sleeping four to 12.
Everything’s clean and in good working order and the only downsides were the mosquitoes and the busy road we could hear from our room. It’s a short drive to the closest beach where surfing dreams can become reality. A dorm room is R110 a night and a private room R290 a night. For the World Cup, prices will increase by about 50% and revert on July 7. For budget eating and shopping, downtown Durban and the Indian quarter are a delight. Contact: +27 312Â 080Â 708.
Middle management
Don’t rely too much on the star-rating system. Our four-star bed-and-breakfast felt more like a three-star in terms of size and facilities whereas the formerly run-down three-star Blue Waters Hotel was the underrated star of the show.
The Anchor’s Rest B&B in Umhlanga, run by Cilla Rose, is small enough to feel like home with a rustic charm and inviting lounge area. It was actually a relief after the grandiose hotels we visited.
Chatting to Celia Rose at their homey B&B. (M&G)
“We try to make it a home from home,” said Cilla’s husband, Peter. Their handful of rooms will set you back R950 for a couple and R650 for a single — offpeak — but these prices will double for the World Cup period. Contact: +27 31Â 561Â 7380.
Blue Waters Hotel (Rogan Ward, M&G) Kitsch and cool
The Blue Waters is slightly shabby but kitsch and cool. The owners have been slowly refurbishing the 263 rooms and will resume after the World Cup. It has an amazing view over North Beach and is a stone’s throw from the Moses Mabhida stadium.
With its large, old-fashioned dining area, big rooms and decent service, its rating came as a surprise, but duty manager Riaz Dhooma told us that people tend to search for three-star hotels. “We try to sell ourselves on reputation; a good value-for-money hotel which exceeds guests’ expectations.” A single will cost you R817 a night and a double R487 a person. During the World Cup that changes to R2322 and R1150. All include a full breakfast. Contact: +27Â 31Â 327Â 7000.
My sunny sea-facing room at the Oyster Box (Supplied) Ritzy rooms As five-star hotels go, the newly revamped Oyster Box in Umhlanga is a hard act to follow. Surprisingly, besides the Royal Hotel, Durban doesn’t have any other high-end hotels in the city centre. A northward movement of the area’s elite has meant that places like Umhlanga — 14km north of the city’s stadium — are increasingly the playground of the wealtjy. It’s a pity, given the immensely rich and historical experiences to be had in the city. Nonetheless, if I had to play at being rich, the Oyster Box would definitely be my spot.
Opened in 1947, the hotel is an institution with locals, who cherish childhood memories of family Sunday lunches overlooking the red and white lighthouse.
It was completely refurbished under new management in 2007 and is a trove of visual delights. Each of the 86 rooms has been individually decorated by the owners, a decor-loving family that has collected pieces from all over the world.
The general theme pays homage to Durban’s history and is a confluence of Indian, African and colonial styles. It could be a mess but it’s gorgeous. Chandeliers from the Savoy in London hang between petal-shaped fans lazily beating the air. The Clock Library is all leather chairs, telescopes and maps, and the Ocean Terrace restaurant, overlooking an expansive pool set next to the hotel’s private beach, has a clean Mumbai feel to it, with turquoise touches and Indian-inspired architecture. Light lunches here will set you back between R70 and R95.
My favourite part was the staff uniforms. The woman who came to clean my room wore pearls and perfect curls whereas the staff at reception flaunted Punjabi-style uniforms.
You should try one of the restaurants at the hotel. The Grill Room is the place for serious dining, under the able hand of executive chef Kevin Joseph. Or try the oysters while lounging outside on a deckchair. Life doesn’t get much better than that. Contact : +27Â 31Â 514Â 5000.
A classic sea-facing room will cost you R4Â 410 for a double and their suites go for about R9Â 000.
“Durban is at the bottom of the food chain in tourism,” a staff member said. “We hope this hotel will be the catalyst for the rest of Durban.”
After the World Cup, I’m guessing that won’t be a problem.