Gautengers have big mouths” ran the advert for the Johannesburg version of the Cape Gourmet Festival, and according to a Cape Town publicist, people in Gauteng also have different eating habits to match their enlarged mouths.
“Capetonians have the mountain and the sea. They can sit all afternoon over a glass of wine, but people up here tend to eat quicker and usually dine out at the weekend or over lunch.”
Regional rivalry aside (the event has been held in Cape Town for the past six years), the festival aims to jolt diners out of their comfort zones and broaden their knowledge of restaurants, ingredients and food.
The Good Food and Wine show at the Sandton Convention Centre at the weekend, however, showed the ugly face of Johannesburg food — kind of like a culinary Rand Show. There were innumerable displays of South African olive oil, salty cheeses, wines, bottled peppadews and designer kitchen gadgets. There seemed to be too many packaged goods — most of which can be found at your local supermarket — and not enough ingredient-type stalls.
However, a display of Cape grape-seed oil went some way towards redressing the balance. The seeds are separated from the skin after the juice has been extracted in the Stellenbosch cellars and are then dried in the sun. The oil is then pressed from the seeds. Eaten on white bread, the oil has an intriguing sweetish, clean taste.
Pick ‘n Pay was at the festival, touting its Internet shopping network — and promising it could deliver food anywhere in South Africa for a delivery fee of R35. Marion Island residents take note.
But surprisingly, there was no African food, not counting a stall selling cooked “braai” pap in plastic bags — I tried some and was immediately sorry. Apparently an African food stall had been planned, but it never materialised.
The highlights of the show were the cooking demonstrations. Nothing beats having a chef make something in front of you — you’ll remember the recipe forever.
The night I attended the show Italian chef Gennaro Contaldo was cooking mushrooms. He was at pains to make clear that when he cooks in his restaurant — the famed Passione in London — everything must be sliced to perfection, but here he was demonstrating hearty home cooking.
He heated a pan of olive oil until it was smoking and then threw in some garlic. When I do this the garlic burns straight away, but Contaldo tossed in one or two mushrooms, which brought the heat right down and did away with that burnt taste. He then added the rest of the mushrooms, chilli, parsley and, a minute later, a ladle of stock. He stirred the food with his fingers and whisked in a cube of butter. Simple, and delicious.
As part of the festival, 43 Gauteng restaurants provided customers with a two-course lunch for less than R59 and were judged on ambience, food, décor, service and wine.
Rhubarb Gourmet, on Sandton Square, which won the best new restaurant category, was a hive of activity on Friday, the day the festival opened. There was a Food & Home promotional lunch on the go, at which United Kingdom celebrity chefs Patrick Williams and Alan Coxon were expected.
Todd Bridge, part-owner and chef, was hunched over the counter in the kitchen’s serving area dressing white plates with glistening salad leaves and pouring gazpacho.
“Everyone’s being very sneaky,” growled a waiter. “There’s a lunch for 90 people and no one’s told us anything.” Diners slurped through their soup oblivious to the frenetic activity in the kitchen.
The judges enjoyed Bridge’s kabeljou with a basil pesto crust, which was served with sautéed potatoes and a black berry reduction, as well as its starter of orange-glazed chicken livers in a deep-fried pasta basket.
Other winners were Parkhurst’s Cilantro in the contemporary cuisine section, Kuchikomi — on Sandton Square — for foreign and exotic food, Linger Longer in Sandton for gourmet and fine dining, Pretoria’s O’Galito in the seafood category and La Pentola, also in Pretoria, in the South African food section.
Cape Grape-Seed Oil: www.capegrapeseedoil.com
Gennaro Contaldo’s restaurant: www.passione.co.uk
Pick ‘n Pay’s website: www.picknpay.co.za